Encased by lush shrubs and thick greenery, the Tunnel of Love is a one of the more off-the-track destinations I’ve ventured to. The 5 kilometre train track (that is still functioning) is nothing short of dumbfounding. According to one source, the tunnel is the result of a Soviet Union intentional plantation to conceal supplies being transported to a nearby a military base. Others suggest it is a local legend that couples who romantically stroll its tracks are granted a wish. Perhaps it’s nature reclaiming what its owed in the endearing fashion found only in the depths of Ukraine’s country side.
Whatever its reason, the Tunnel of Love is one of my favourite memories of Ukraine in the summer of 2018, not just for its mysterious beauty but for the journey it took me on.
How To Get There (From Kiev)
To get to the Tunnel of Love from Kiev, you need to be prepared to hire a car and brave the roads or tangle yourself through the rural Ukrainian public transport system. I didn’t hire car. So this is how I did it:
Step 1: Train to Rivne
First part of the journey is a train ride to Rivne. The train travel in Ukraine is hit and miss, but its packed with curious characters and pleasant farm fields. Nothing beats free range cows and horses gnawing at the grass sprouting from the train line. My train ride to Rivne from Kiev was about 7 hours, but depending on which train you catch it can be anywhere between 6 – 10. For longer rides don’t expect: air conditioning, flush-able toilet, or snack options; prepare food, water and tissues. The ride itself is very pleasant and one of my fondest memories of the entire country.
There is an option to bus to Rivne but I have been advised it can be a slow and uncomfortable process as roads can be a bit rough for long term travel.
You can book your train through this website.
*Rivne is also known as ROVNO on the bus and train timetables.
Step 2: Stay in Rivne
The quaint town of Rivne is peaceful and full of life. English is uncommon but younger generations appeared to have basic language skills which is handy. We stayed at the Boutique Hotel Central – it was clean and central an had a good selection of restaurants below (the cafe below sold 1L lattes. Hell yes.). There is a hostel in Rivne, but the reasonable prices in hotels are justified ($20 AUD when shared by two) if you are after a private space. Rest up and get ready for tomorrow!
Step 3: Bus to Klevan
Time to brave the real rural Ukrainian public transport system – with a minibus!
- Get in quick – its common for people to push for seats on the bus and you will need to stand your ground and push your way on as well. If you are successful, sit closer to the front of the bus for ease of getting off (people stand in the isle) & being able to ask the driver if you’re at the right stop.
- There is an abundance of busses from Rivne Bus Station (across from the train station you arrived at) to Kovel, one every 15 or so minutes, that will stop at Klevan after 40 minutes. That is your destination to reach the tunnel. The departing bus terminal tends to be the busiest.
- The driver will ask you where you’re going and I found it easiest to point on my Google Maps where I was headed. “Ah – tunnel.” He mused and I trusted he understood. (He did, thank god.)
- Have small change cash – it cost about 35 UAH ($2.30 AUD). He will hand back change to multiple people at once. Its chaotic but it seems to function.
Step 4: Walk to the Tunnel
Once you’re off the bus you will see a white arrow directing you down the street towards the Tunnel of Love sign. You wont miss it. Quickly ask the driver if you aren’t sure and they will point in the right direction.
Roughly 20 minutes of walking through the tiny town with whimsical yard decorations and the odd goat, you will come to a treeline with a single track leading you into the forest. Follow along until you reach the little store and photo swing – you’ve now arrived to the Tunnel of Love!
Step 5: Explore
Now you’ve made it, wander down the tracks, set up a picnic and enjoy. I found it took about 10 – 15 minutes of walking down the track before we lost the crowd (if you call 5 couples and a family a crowd). Take the shameless photoshoot and gape at the wonder you’ve come so far for.
Things you MUST remember for the Tunnel of Love:
- Mosquito Repellent!! GOOD GOD did I make a mistake not bringing bug repellent. In the peak of summer, the mosquitoes were suffocating. I remember a cheerful man riding his bike past asked us if we had brought bug-spray. We (like fools) said we would be okay without it – we’re Australian after all. 10 minutes later I understood his booming laughter. [Look closely at the second photo above – a mosquito photo bombed me. I do not recommend.]
- A fully charged camera or portable phone charger – there is nothing like arriving somewhere epic and not being able to snap some shots.
- THIS IS A FUNCTIONING TRAIN TRACK! Please be aware of your surroundings and listen out for trains. While only one tourist has ever been injured in 2013, it is essential to keep your wits about it. We didn’t have any interactions with trains in our hour-and-a-half visit, but it is still possible. Be smart.
- To return back to Rivne all you need to do is return to the bus stop you arrived at and look out for a bus with ROVNO (Rivne) on the front. The wait for us was about half an hour. From Rivne you can return to Kiev or Lviv, or elsewhere in neighbouring countries such as Budapest by bus.
*A special thank you to The Wayfarers Book who – at the time – was the only guide to getting to the Tunnel of Love I could find.
Tales and Trails Travel 